Selkirk Cedar vs “Japanese Cedar” (and Other Inferior Woods): What Oklahoma Homeowners Should Know
If you’re shopping fences in the OKC metro, you’ve probably heard a contractor say, “It’s cedar.” The problem is not all ‘cedar’ is equal, and some products marketed as cedar are chosen mainly because they’re cheaper and thinner—not because they’ll hold up better in Oklahoma weather.
At Red River Fence, we use #1 grade true 7/8" thick Inland Red Cedar pickets that are kiln-dried (Selkirk), and we’re blunt about why: thickness + stability = longer life and fewer headaches.
Table of Contents
Quick Answer
What “Selkirk Cedar” Means (and why kiln-dried matters)
The #1 Fence Problem in Oklahoma: Movement (warp, cup, split)
“Japanese Cedar” Isn’t the Same Species as Western Red Cedar
Why Thin Pickets Fail Faster (and cost you more later)
How to Compare Fence Quotes (so you don’t get tricked)
FAQs
Get a Free Estimate (OKC Metro)
Quick Answer
Selkirk kiln-dried cedar pickets (true 7/8" thick) typically outperform thin “cedar” alternatives because they’re more dimensionally stable and resist warping/cupping better—especially in Oklahoma’s moisture swings and wind. Red River Fence specifically uses 7/8" kiln-dried Selkirk cedar and warns that cheaper substitutes (including “Japanese cedar” and “native cedar” sold as budget options) are commonly linked to warping, splitting, and cupping.
What “Selkirk Cedar” Means (and Why Kiln-Dried Matters)
Selkirk is a major producer of Western Red Cedar products (kiln-dried cedar is a core part of what they sell).
For fencing, “kiln-dried” matters because wood that’s dried and controlled tends to have more predictable movement after install.
Red River Fence’s spec is clear: #1 Grade true 7/8” thick pickets, kiln-dried Selkirk, and the point of that extra thickness is simple—it helps prevent warping, cupping, and splitting over time.
The #1 Fence Problem in Oklahoma: Movement
Oklahoma fences take a beating from:
big temperature swings
wet/dry cycles
high wind events
When wood cycles moisture, it moves. Western Red Cedar is specifically known for low shrinkage and strong resistance to warping, twisting, and checking compared to many other softwoods.
That’s why your material choice matters: the “cedar” label alone doesn’t tell you if the boards will stay flatter and straighter.
“Japanese Cedar” Isn’t the Same Species as Western Red Cedar
A lot of the confusion is the name.
“Japanese cedar” commonly refers to Cryptomeria (sugi), which is not the same genus as Western Red Cedar (Thuja).
So even if both are marketed as “cedar,” you’re comparing different species with different performance characteristics.
Red River Fence’s position (straight shooter): many suppliers have switched to cheaper “Japanese cedar” alternatives, and they’ve seen those substitutes linked with warping, splitting, and cupping issues.
Why Thin Pickets Fail Faster (and Cost You More Later)
Here’s the quiet truth: a lot of budget “cedar” fencing is simply thinner, and thin boards show problems sooner.
Red River Fence compares true 7/8" pickets to “nominal 5/8” pickets that can actually measure closer to 7/16–1/2", and they state the extra thickness adds life and reduces warping/cupping/splitting.
In plain English: thinner pickets are easier to:
twist and cup
split at nails/screws
look wavy down the fence line after a couple seasons
Other “Inferior Wood Options” That Get Sold as Fence Material
Red River Fence also calls out “Native Cedar” (milled from common North American cedar/juniper trees people see around Oklahoma) as not recommended for outdoor construction due to warping/splitting/cupping.
You may also hear vague labels like “whitewood,” which they correctly note is not a specific wood species.
How to Compare Fence Quotes (So You Don’t Get Tricked)
When you’re comparing bids, ask these exact questions:
What species is the wood, specifically? (Western Red Cedar, Inland Red Cedar, Cryptomeria/sugi, etc.)
Is it kiln-dried?
What is the actual picket thickness? (Ask for a measurement, not “nominal.”)
What grade is it (#1, #2, etc.)?
What’s included to protect the fence long-term?
Stain/seal recommendations matter because exterior wood can crack/split with moisture and temperature changes—Red River Fence recommends staining to slow weathering.
FAQs
Q: What is Selkirk cedar?
A: Selkirk is a producer of cedar lumber products, commonly associated with Western Red Cedar offerings and kiln-dried boards used in exterior applications.
Q: Is “Japanese cedar” actually cedar?
A: It’s commonly Cryptomeria (sugi), which is not the same genus as Western Red Cedar (Thuja). They’re different species with different properties, even if both get called “cedar” in marketing.
Q: Does thicker cedar really matter for fencing?
A: Yes. Thicker pickets generally resist warping/cupping better and hold fasteners more reliably. Red River Fence specifically cites their true 7/8" pickets as a durability upgrade over thinner “nominal” pickets.
Q: What wood does Red River Fence use for cedar privacy fences?
A: Red River Fence states they use #1 Grade true 7/8” thick Inland Red Cedar pickets that are kiln-dried Selkirk for their wood privacy fences.
Q: Should I stain my cedar fence in Oklahoma?
A: Stain won’t make wood “immortal,” but it can reduce weathering and help manage moisture exposure. Red River Fence recommends staining to help prevent weathering and reduce cracking risks.
Get a Free Estimate (OKC Metro)
If you want a fence that looks straighter longer (and doesn’t turn into a wavy repair project), we’ll quote it with clear specs—species, thickness, and options—so you know exactly what you’re buying.
Free estimates
Financing available
Military discount
Call: (405) 657-2220
Website: redriverfenceok.com
Service area: Oklahoma City metro (Edmond, Yukon, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Bethany)
Internal link: cedar privacy fence → /cedar-privacy-fence
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