Driven Posts vs Concrete for Fence Posts in Oklahoma: Which Is Better?
If you’re building a fence in the OKC metro, the #1 debate is usually this: should the posts be driven or set in concrete? The honest answer is that both can work—but in Oklahoma’s mix of clay soils, moisture swings, and high winds, one method tends to win more often for long-term straight fences.
In this guide, you’ll learn when driven posts are the smarter choice, when concrete actually makes sense, and what matters most (depth, drainage, post type, and gate loads).
Table of Contents
Quick Answer
What “Driven Posts” Means (and Why It Matters)
Concrete-Set Posts: When They Help (and When They Hurt)
Oklahoma Soil + Weather: The Real Reason This Debate Exists
Depth: How Deep Should Posts Be in Oklahoma?
Best Practice by Fence Type (Privacy, Ornamental/Pool, Chain Link)
Common Mistakes to Avoid (Either Method)
FAQs
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Quick Answer
Driven posts are often the better choice in Oklahoma because driving compacts the soil around the post, creates less ground disturbance, and avoids a “bathtub” effect where water can collect around the post—especially in clay. Concrete can be a great option for high-load areas (like certain gate/terminal situations) or weak/sandy soils, but only if it’s installed with correct depth and drainage.
Key takeaway: The “best” method depends on soil strength + water behavior + load (especially gates), not tradition.
What “Driven Posts” Means (and Why It Matters)
A driven post is installed using a powered post driver that pushes the post into undisturbed soil. That does two important things:
It compacts the soil tightly around the post (think “natural clamp”).
It keeps the surrounding soil structure intact, which helps stability over time.
For homeowners, the big benefit is simple: less wobble, less leaning, and fewer voids for water to sit in.
At Red River Fence, we’re set up for driven-post installation because it’s consistent and strong in the conditions we deal with every day in the OKC metro.
Concrete-Set Posts: When They Help (and When They Hurt)
Concrete isn’t “bad.” It’s just often misused.
Concrete can help when:
Soils are weak or sandy and won’t grip a post well
The post needs extra resistance to uplift or lateral loads
You’re dealing with specific structural needs (engineered situations)
Concrete can hurt when:
Water collects around the post because drainage wasn’t planned
The hole is oversized, and the concrete becomes a slick “plug” in soft soil
The concrete collar creates a rigid zone while the surrounding clay expands/contracts—sometimes leading to movement elsewhere
Engineering guidance on shallow post foundations focuses on ensuring soil/backfill isn’t overloaded, minimizing frost heave, and limiting lateral movement—those goals apply whether you drive or set with concrete.
Bottom line: Concrete requires good design details to avoid becoming a moisture trap and to resist movement correctly.
Oklahoma Soil + Weather: The Real Reason This Debate Exists
In Oklahoma, the fence enemy isn’t just “time”—it’s soil movement + water.
Clay soil expands when wet and shrinks when dry. That cycle can slowly push, pull, and twist posts.
Drainage varies a lot by neighborhood (new construction fill, heavy clay lots, slope issues).
Wind loads are real—especially on tall privacy fences that act like a sail.
This is why driven posts tend to perform well: they rely on tight soil-to-post contact in undisturbed ground, rather than depending on backfilled soil around a dug hole.
Depth: How Deep Should Fence Posts Be in Oklahoma?
Depth matters more than “driven vs concrete.”
A common rule of thumb is about 1/3 of the above-ground fence height plus adjustments for conditions (wind exposure, soil, fence style). But what about frost?
In much of Oklahoma, frost depth is relatively shallow compared to northern states. For example, Stillwater’s adopted construction standards list 18 inches for frost line depth.
That doesn’t mean “18 inches is enough.” It means frost is usually not the main driver, like it is up north—soil moisture and movement often matter more.
What we do (real-world, consistent):
6' Cedar Privacy Fence: steel posts driven ~42" into the ground
That depth and embedment are a major reason tall fences stay straighter through seasons and wind.8’ Cedar Privacy Fence: steel posts driven ~42” into the ground every 4’ on center.
The depth, spacing, and embedment are major reasons tall fences stay straighter through seasons and wind.
Best Practice by Fence Type (What Usually Works Best)
1) 6' Cedar Privacy Fence (most wind load)
Best approach (most OKC metro yards): Driven steel posts, deep embedment
Why: privacy fences catch wind, and the post is the backbone. Driving into undisturbed soil + deeper embedment is a strong combo.
Pro tip: If someone is setting wood posts in concrete, make sure they’re addressing drainage and rot risk. Many “concrete failures” are actually water management failures.
Internal link: cedar privacy fence → /cedar-privacy-fence
2) Ornamental / Pool Fence (alignment matters)
Ornamental/pool fencing is less of a wind sail, but it’s unforgiving visually—if it moves, you see it.
Often best: driven posts (clean, straight runs)
Concrete can make sense in certain layouts, but consistency is everything.
Internal link: ornamental and pool fence → /ornamental-pool-fence
3) Chain Link Fence (gate/terminal loads are the deciding factor)
Chain link itself doesn’t catch wind like a privacy fence, but terminals and gates take big loads.
Common best practice:
Line posts: driven (fast, stable, consistent)
Terminal/gate posts: may need extra attention because they carry tension and gate weight
Internal link: chain link fence → /chain-link-fence
Common Mistakes to Avoid (Either Method)
Not going deep enough for the fence height and wind exposure
Oversized holes (if using concrete) that rely on loose backfill
Poor drainage around posts (water sits, soil weakens, rot accelerates)
Weak gate/terminal design (gates destroy fences when posts/bracing aren’t right)
Mixing methods inconsistently without a measurement/formula (creates inconsistent mixes with varying strength, causing movement)
FAQs
Q: Are driven fence posts as strong as concrete-set posts?
A: In many Oklahoma soils, driven posts are extremely strong because the post is surrounded by compacted, undisturbed soil. Concrete can be strong too, but it depends heavily on hole size, depth, and drainage details. The “best” choice depends on soil and load (especially gates).
Q: Do driven posts work in Oklahoma clay?
A: Yes—clay is one of the reasons driven posts perform well because driving compacts the soil tightly around the post. The key is proper post type, depth, and avoiding shallow embedment in highly active soil.
Q: When should I insist on concrete for fence posts?
A: Consider concrete in weak/sandy soils, in special structural situations, or where engineering calls for it. If concrete is used, proper drainage and correct depth are non-negotiable. Often, driving longer posts deeper into the ground solves this issue.
Q: What’s the frost line in Oklahoma?
A: Frost depth varies by area, but it’s generally much shallower than in northern states. For example, Stillwater lists an 18-inch frost line depth in its adopted standards.
Q: Why do some concrete-set posts get loose over time?
A: Common reasons include oversized holes, poor compaction of surrounding soil, water collecting around the concrete collar, and clay shrink/swell cycles. Many failures trace back to drainage and soil disturbance rather than concrete itself.
Q: Is driving posts faster than concrete?
A: Usually, yes. Driving typically reduces digging, spoils, and cure time—so installs are cleaner and faster while maintaining strong soil contact.
Q: How deep should posts be for a 6-foot privacy fence?
A: Depth depends on wind exposure, soil, and post type. As a practical benchmark, many high-performing installs use deep embedment well beyond frost depth. (For example, we drive our privacy fence posts roughly 42 inches into the ground.)
Q: What matters more—post depth or concrete?
A: For most residential fences, depth + soil contact + drainage matter more than simply “adding concrete.” A shallow post in concrete can still fail.
Get a Free Estimate (OKC Metro)
If you want a fence that stays straight through Oklahoma weather, we’ll look at your soil, slope, drainage, gate layout, and wind exposure—and recommend the right build.
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Call: (405) 657-2220
Website: redriverfenceok.com
Service area: OKC metro (Edmond, Yukon, Mustang, Moore, Norman, and more)
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